I originally had issues with the circuit, but it eventually worked on the old eMachines T1360 desktop. I also switched the 74HC244 IC before this, so who knows. I should try the original IC again sometime, as I think the original one is fine. (I miswired two pinouts on the test Linksys WRT54G-TM unit at some point.)
Original storage and memory specs are 256GB and 8GB respectively, so those were upgraded to 512GB and 16GB before handing it off to her.
I have since mirrored the original modified 256GB NVMe SSD storage to one of the notebook drives and to the server, so there are two local copies, just in case.
I will also keep an eye on the new 512GB NVMe SSD, though I seem to have insanely good luck with SSDs so far (only one died so far and it was a Sandisk X110 128GB SSD... after 7 years of near constant use).
Unsurprisingly, the installation post-migration needed activation. Sis shows up and says, basically, "Hey, the computer just started showing this Activate Windows on the screen."
I have a legitimate Windows 7 Home Premium product key I now use just for Windows 10 installations when the hardware is majorly upgraded. However, it's been used on two machines so far, so...
After I handed the system back to Sis, we booted up the machine. She was astounded at how fast it loads things now: "Now I don't have to wait a kajillion years for it to load!"
Oh, it needed Ethernet drivers. Installed those, and it's fine now.
The system now has an additional Downloads drive, as the old system's partition is low on space.
The migration to the new build is complete. However, it took me nearly 10 hours.
One was the Windows Update that took almost 40 minutes (!) on the temp drive. Noticed something was up when Disk Cleanup was running quite slow.
Two was the fact that I was trying to convert BIOS/MBR to EFI/GPT without any notes! This is the issue that took up a LOT of those 10 hours. Oh, and MBR2GPT always failed converting the system drive... That, and I kept screwing up the way Windows booted, lol.
I now have some conversion notes, but there will be no recovery partition for that system, so it will need installation media whenever something goes very wrong (which is extremely rare).
Last thing done to the system was to migrate the system disk to the temporary HDD so I can do the following:
* convert the dual-boot setup to a single OS setup (getting rid of Windows 7 and editing the BootManager entries on the Windows 10 partition)
* convert the Windows 10 partition (now single boot) from BIOS/MBR to GPT/EFI
* Migrate the EFI/GPT setup to the NVME on the new proposed build (this one may be a tad iffy, but we'll see)
She has the gaming system, but with the original mainboard and the temporary HDD, mainly because we ran out of time for the final part of the migration for the day.
For the SteamGames HDD: since it was from Mom's current Lenovo drive, the beginning section of the drive has a bit of an identity crisis: it has some GPT mark, despite the fact it is now an MBR drive. Clonezilla freaked out over this, so I had to dd the drive to the SSD. This is what happens if you do not properly zero these drives in the first place.
Mom's HP laptop now has an SSD instead of and HDD (but it is SATA!). Someday she will get an NVME in its place, as the system supports it.
Now, on Sis's build: the SteamGames HDD is now an SSD. As of this post, the original system drive is being mirrored to Mom's old HDD for final migration to the NVME on the new build.
Main reason is the build had a seamless transition from Windows 7 to Windows 10 by the use of two partitions on the old 1TB HDD. This time, the new build will not have this; the NVME is only 512GB. Windows 11 will not be installed on that system at this time, and only the Windows 10 partition will remain. Since the old system is BIOS/MBR, the setup will need to be converted to EFI/GPT for the new build.
The old 4x2TB (3x2TB) file server had one bad sector on one drive within a week of setting it up (2015) and remained there until its retirement in 2022. So, I'm pretty optimistic so far. 🙂
Original Sharp AD-T51BT lithium battery: ~9 hours
Odd Chinese Sharp compatible lithium battery: ~17(!) hours
Though this says more of the age of the original battery than anything; I would expect a practically fresh one to go ~13 hours at least.
Notes:
* Original Sharp battery capacity is ~850mAh
* Odd Chinese Sharp battery capacity is apparently ~1000mAh
* Original Sharp battery year is circa 1998
* Odd Chinese Sharp battery was obtained in 2012; expected to be a year older
For the Sharp unit, I wanted to know how long the original Li-Ion battery lasted: it was about 9 hours! As for the Sony MZ-R900, it was a pretty short test run. Unit is fine.
Also redone a MiniDisc with more proper music files and created a new MiniDisc with the Sony MZ-DN430; it has been relegated to solely be a NetMD recorder now.
Also for today, it was to test the rest of the MD portable collection. So far:
Sony MZ-R37: fine. Previously, it was noisy, but it is quiet now. Odd.
Sony MZ-R500: repaired corner crack near the ENTER button.
Sony MZ-N510: fine.
Sony MZ-E33 (black): Severe skipping on all tracks on one MD. Cleaning the lens did not work, but simply greasing the track where the laser is located worked; no more skipping.
Sony MZ-E33 (white gold): I preemptively greased the laser track like the black version of the unit, and it is now fine.